Moss and algae won’t eat through a tile roof very quickly, certainly not as easily as with a wood shake roof. And most of the time, tile roof repair is not as urgent in nature as it is for other materials. Because tile roofs are expensive to install, it is much better to repair the tiles than replace the roof.

The most common two problems with tile roofs are cracked or broken tiles and debris buildup.

Cleaning Debris

As with all roof maintenance, keep overhanging trees cut back to reduce shade and debris. This will slow the development of moss and algae and reduce buildup of debris. To inhibit moss growth you can fit a copper wire net to the ridgeline. Water running over the copper will reduce the amount of moss that grows below it. (If you collect rainwater for drinking, do not use this method.)

Build up of moss and debris in the slots between the tiles can cause water to back up under the tiles. When this happens, it can be difficult to determine the source of a leak. Tiles hang on long strips of wood that run horizontally, so water that gets behind the tiles can follow the boards and cause a leak in another area. Valley sections of the roof are particularly prone to this problem, and should be cleaned every year.

Pressure washing is the most safe and effective way to clean moss and algae, and is recommended by the Tile Roof Institute.

Fixing and Replacing Broken Tiles

Tiles can break or become damaged by extreme weather conditions such as high winds or large hail, improper installation or from being walked on. When working on the roof, work on planks or a roof ladder. If you walk directly on the tiles, they will break.

If your roof starts shedding undamaged tiles for no apparent reason, it could be that the installer used cheap galvanized nails instead of copper or stainless steel. In this case, relaying all the tiles with the proper nails is the only solution.

Some tiles can be repaired with silicon sealant or adhesive.

To replace a tile, pry up the tile just above the broken one. Break the damaged tile into smaller pieces and carefully remove them. Pry out nails. Spread a small amount of roofing cement along the underside of the replacement and slide it into place. For a single tile replacement, just the adhesive will be sufficient. Press all tiles down snugly.

Tile Matching

Matching tile on an older roof can be challenging. Roof tile suppliers that carry a large inventory of salvaged roof tile can be your best option. If you can’t find a match, you can take tiles from a less visible part of the roof and fill that spot with the closest match you find. Use the matching tile on the more visible areas.  You can also have custom tiles made, but this is expensive and getting an exact match is not guaranteed.

Fixing Metal Flashings

If you have metal flashings that need repair, often you can lift the tiles just around the flashings, replace them and return the tiles. You may also find and replace broken tiles at this time. Whether you do the work yourself or hire a roofer, care is needed when working on a tile roof or you will cause more damage than you repair.

Clean moss, lichen, and molds with a solution of water and chlorine bleach or other solvent.

But what if your wood shingle roof needs repairs?

Types of Wood Roofs

First of all, there are two basic kinds of wood roofs. Shingles are smooth. Shakes are rough-hewn and rustic. They come in varying lengths, and are typically 16, 18, or 24 inches long. Most are made from red cedar, which is durable and resists insect damage. Sometimes manufacturers use preservative-treated pine or other woods. Maintenance and repair for both types are the same.

Whatever type you choose, when you first have your roof installed be sure to keep a bundle of shingles that can be used for future repairs.

Commercially Available Treatments

If you protect your wood roof with a commercially available treatment, it will last longer. Left unprotected, a wood roof will begin to decay within ten years; but could last as long as 30 years with proper treatment.

Home improvement stores carry a variety of products for this. Each comes with its own specific directions, and it is important to follow those explicitly. You will typically get the best protection if you dip the shingles into the solution, or apply the treatment with a brush for maximum coverage.

Curled Shingles

If your wood shingle curls away from the roof, it can usually be flattened and reattached.

1. If the shingle is brittle (as often happens in cold weather), you must soften first. Do this by using a propane torch with a flame spreader nozzle. Use it to warm the curled edges; of course be careful not to burn them!
2. Once they are warm, you should be able to easily flatten the edges and reattach the shingle with asphalt roof cement. Apply roof cement generously to each corner and press back into place.
3. Use a brick or other heavy object to hold the shingle flat while the roof cement sets.

Repair a Cracked Shingle

It is better to repair small cracks than to replace the shingle.

1. To fix a crack that is smaller (under ¼ inch), first pull out loose splinters.
2. Now only the large pieces remain. Nail the large pieces down with galvanized roofing nails, being careful not to drive the nail heads into the shingle; that will damage the shingle surface.
3. Cover the crack and the nail heads with roofing cement.
4. For cracks wider than ¼ inch, you will need to use a sheet metal patch. Drive a piece of sheet metal under the crack of the shingle, until the top of the metal reaches past the upper edge of the crack.
5. Nail the shingle pieces down with galvanized roofing nails, being careful not to drive the nail heads into the shingle, which will damage the shingle surface. Cover the crack and nail heads with roofing cement.
6. Remove shingles that cannot be repaired
7. Remove pieces of broken shingle that can be chiseled out or pulled out with your fingers. When you pull, move in a down and out motion to avoid damaging other shingles.
8. Use a hacksaw to cut nails that held the broken shingle. Cut them even with the sheathing or wood slats. You will probably have to pry the shingle above it up enough to get all the nails. Be careful you don’t crack the good shingle.
9. Completely remove the broken shingle and then use the hacksaw to remove the nails that secured it, being careful of the decking underneath.
10. Cut a replacement shingle, making it approximately 3/8 inch narrower than the empty space. This allows the shingle to expand when it gets wet. Drive in the replacement shingle using a wood block and hammer. Nail it down and cover any exposed nail heads with roofing cement.

Keep your attic cool. This will prevent heat from building up under the shingles, which causes oils in the asphalt to dry, shortening their lifespan.

Increase ventilation by adding turbine vents near the ridgeline of the roof. Turbine vents are heat driven, so when warm air rises from the attic, the turbine spin and releases the hot air. They are very low maintenance and don’t require electricity to work.

Do You Need a New Roof?

On the sunniest side of your roof, bend a corner of several shingles. If they break rather than flex, or are gray and bloated, your roof will probably need replacement soon. Also, if you are seeing a lot of mineral granules washing off the shingles into the gutters or at the base of downspouts, the protective surface of the asphalt is wearing away and also indicates that the roof is near end of life.

Find Replacement Shingles

If you don’t have a bundle of extra shingles saved from the roof installation, find one that is similar in size, weight and color from a roofing store. Asphalt shingles are manufactured in long strips and are notched so they look like individual shingles. When repairing damaged asphalt shingles, it is not necessary to replace the entire strip.

Repair a Torn or Curling Shingle

Apply a layer of roofing cement to the back of the damaged shingle, and press into place. Either weigh the shingle with a brick while it sets, or tack the edge with roofing nails.

Replace Shingles

Lift the line of shingles above the one to be replaced with a pry bar, being careful not to damage them. Along the edge of the damaged shingle, slide a pry bar along its length to break the black self sealing strip that holds them in place.

Pull the nails out of the bad shingle and remove it. If you don’t want or need to replace the entire strip, use heavy scissors to cut the shingle from the strip. Measure the area and cut a new shingle to fit. Slip the new shingle under the layer above.

If possible, drive the new roofing nails into the original holes. If that isn’t possible, seal the old holes with roofing cement. When you hammer in new nails, place the flat end of a pry bar over the nail and hammer the pry bar. This will help prevent damage from the hammer. Coat the nail heads with roofing cement and press the overlaying shingle back into place.

Repairing Shingles on Ridges

It is best to leave damaged ridge shingles and hip shingles in place. Make your repairs by applying a second shingle over the first. Coat the bottom of the new shingle with roofing cement, and place it over the old shingle, securing with roofing nails. Coat the nail heads with roofing cement.

Repair processes vary widely depending on the type of metal roof. Whenever repairing a metal roof, be sure to use compatible materials.

Many metals react, causing corrosion. Some woods and other chemicals can also cause corrosion. Be sure to read your manufacturer’s metal roof care instructions.

While the required maintenance steps vary, we’ve assembled tips on how to maintain and repair most types of metal roofs used in residential construction. Read on to learn more on how to maintain and repair most types of metal roofs

General Repairs

1. Pull and re-nail loose nails.
2. Look for holes, rust patches and other signs of damage.
3. Seal leaks with urethane roof cement. Urethane protects against UV breakdown better than asphalt or plastic roof cement.
4. Re-calk edges and seams along flashing using urethane roof cement.

Patching a Hole

1. It is important to use the same type of metal as the roof, otherwise your patch can cause corrosion. First, clean the area with an all-purpose cleaner and a wire brush and let it dry completely.
2. Your patch should be at least 2 inches larger than the damaged area, and remove the corners with tin snips. Fold the edges under ½ inch. Sand the folded part until its shiny. Put flux on the roof where the patch will be, and on the edges of the patch. Place the patch on the hole and weight it down with a brick. Hold solder on the seam and heat with soldering iron so that it melts and runs under the patch. Do this all the way around the patch, not leaving any open spaces.
3. Cut two more patches larger than the hole. Coat the area on the roof with cement. Press one patch and apply another coat of cement. Repeat with the last patch and apply one last coat of roofing cement.

Long Run Metal Roofs

There are two basic types of long run metal roofs: fixed-through and clip-on. Clip-on roofing can be used on flatter roofs, with slopes as little as one degree. The clips go into the roofing first, which is then fixed to the roof purlins. Fixed-through corrugated sheeting is used on more sloping roofs (not below eight degrees). Sheets are held onto the roof with fastenings drilled through the roofing material.

Any repairs that penetrate the metal of a long run roof could invalidate your warranty. Check with the roofing manufacturer before doing any repairs. Also, check with the manufacturer before cleaning or attaching fastenings. You will need to know the correct cleaners and metals to use to prevent damage. For example, if your roof is made of zinc/aluminum-coated steel, you need to use soft zinc or aluminum flashings. Lead, even just from marking with a lead pencil, could cause reactions and corrosion.

Steel Roofs

Lifted Flashing - Flashing protects vulnerable spots, and if they are damaged you may have leaking. Lead or aluminum flashing that has bent or pulled away can be reshaped to the roof profile, but you might want to consider replacing them with a heavier grade flashing.

Loose Nails and Screws - Nails and screws that hold flashing into place need to be replaced if they fail. Consider replacing them with spiral shank nails or screws for better hold.

Dented and Damaged Sheets - If you can access the underside of the roof, you can push out smaller dents. Badly damaged sheets will need to be replaced.

Buckling and Tearing - Buckling and tearing can be caused by heat or by too few joints. Badly done repairs can also cause buckles. Remove and replace sheets with shorter lengths and more joints.

Corrosion - Metal will corrode due to grime, steel debris left on the roof, or contact with incompatible metals or woods (such as cedar, which is highly acidic). First, remove the cause. Then, clean the roof by sanding all the rust away. Apply a zinc-rich primer to sanded areas, then prime entire roof with galvanized iron primer and top coats. Severely corroded roofing will need to be replaced.

Bi-Metallic Corrosion - Many metals when put together will cause corrosion, especially when they become wet. Check with the roof manufacturer to find out what metals are compatible with your roof. If your roof is zinc/aluminum coated steel, it is not compatible with copper, pre-painted steel, galvanized steel, or lead. Make sure copper pipes don’t direct water onto metal roofing or gutters. Flashing should be made from the same material as your roof.

Corrosion at Roof Ridges - Salt, dust, or sand catching under the roof ridges can cause corrosion. If this happens, remove the ridging and clean the deposits. Remove the rust. Prime the area and replace the ridging. Replace any badly corroded ridging or roof panels.

Pre-Painted Steel Roofs - Factory coated steel is rust resistant and should need little repair for the first 15 years after installation.

Peeling Paint and Chalking - Weather can cause peeling paint and chalking (white powdery buildup). If the warranty period for the roof has expired, remove loose paint and repaint according to the manufacturers instructions.

Minor Scratches - Minor scratches (most don’t affect weather tightness) are best left alone, since patching with paint will show up more than the scratch. If sheets are badly damaged they will need to be replaced.

Surface Stains - Surface Stains can form from poor pre-paint preparation or with runoff from lead flashing. Lift the flashing, prime and paint both sides with acrylic topcoat to match the roof.

Unpainted Metal Roofs

White Rust - When water droplets sit on the surface of an unpainted metal roof, white rust can form. Scrub them off with a plastic brush, not wire. Regular cleaning will prevent these, or you can paint the steel to reduce corrosion.

Red Rust - This is most common on zinc/aluminum or galvanized steel. The only long-term solution is to find and remove the cause. Possible causes are: run off from cedar, redwood, CCA timbers (those treated with copper, chrome, and arsenic), glass, or painted steel; run off from clear or opaque sheeting; a corrosive environment (for example, a nearby swimming pool); or use of lead flashings or stainless steel fixings with zinc/aluminum alloy steel. Once you have identified and eliminated the cause, you can remove the rust, prime the area with a coating that is recommended by the manufacturer.

Corrosion - Corrosion can be caused by debris collecting under flashings and roofing overlaps, and can be avoided through regular maintenance, carefully cleaning under flashings and overlaps.
The underside of galvanized steel sheets can corrode if they are not primed or washed. Usually by the time you notice this, the damage is severe and the sheets will need to be replaced. Priming overlapping sheets can prevent this.

Whether your roof is two years old or twenty years old, you should inspect your roof every spring, and if you live in cold climates, do second inspection check in the fall. The best preventative maintenance you can do to extend the useful life of your roof is to perform semi-annual inspections and identify problems when they arise.

If only it could be so easy! Cleaning your roof is a tough job, but someone has to do it.

Your home’s roof takes more abuse from the weather and elements than any other component of your home. Preventative maintenance saves money and gives you a longer roof service life. This guide will show you how to keep your roof in the best possible working condition.

A Word on Roof Maintenance and Safety

Binoculars are the safest way to check your roof. In most cases, you can see everything you need to right from the ground. If you can, use a window cleaning brush to reach eaves, joinery and wall cladding.

If you do have to use a ladder to inspect and clean parts of your roof, make sure the ladder is taller than the roofline by at least two feet. That way, if the ladder slides left or right, it will still remain on the roof line.

Also, if you drive a long stake or piece of rebar into the ground behind the ladder, this will prevent it from sliding backwards while you are on it. Never lean over the side of a ladder to reach other parts of the roof. Get down and move the ladder.

A few additional roof maintenance safety precautions include:

Always take safety seriously when performing roof cleaning and maintenance.

• If you decide to go onto your roof, and your roof has more than 15 degrees of pitch, use a roof ladder. It’s nearly impossible to stop yourself before you reach the edge if you slip and fall on a steeply pitched roof.
• If you can’t reach sections with a roof ladder (hipped roof or dormer windows are examples) you need to be able to affix safety ropes.
• Never climb onto a damp or wet roof! Roofs that are wet, even just a little bit, can be very slippery—especially if you have some mildew or mold on it.
• Wear soft shoes with a good grip, and always walk along nail lines.

Annual Spring Roof Check Up

Inspect your roof in the spring for debris, moss, mold, damaged tiles or shingles, and damaged or clogged gutters. By repairing it and cleaning it up after the winter season, you will extend the life of your roof.

Leaves and Pine Needles

• What to look for:
  • Any buildup of leaves and pine needles deep enough to hold moisture on the roof will need to be removed. Debris not only traps moisture, but causes mildew to form underneath it, interrupts the flow of water off the roof, can block gutters, and can put undue weight in one area.
• How to fix:
  • Use a plastic leaf rake, push broom, or air blower. Generally, power washers are too strong for most roof types and the water can make it slippery and dangerous. Even when sweeping or raking, use light pressure to avoid causing damage.
• How to prevent:
  • Trim overhanging trees to allow sunlight to reach the roof. This will also reduce moisture and mildew problems, and will reduce the amount of debris that builds up.

Moss on Roof

Unless you want your roof to look like this, semi-annual roof cleaning and inspection is generally a good idea!

• What to look for:
  • Moss has a shallow root system and needs a constant source of moisture to survive.
• How to fix:
  • Since the roots are shallow they are usually easily removed with a long handled scrub brush or by spraying with a garden hose. Always clean and spray from the top of the roof toward the bottom to avoid damaging shingles.
• How to prevent:
  • To prevent moss buildup, you might want to consider nailing zinc strips to the ridgeline. Rain that washes over the zinc creates zinc oxide, which will kill most moss it washes over. Copper strips are also effective and last longer. Install copper strips under the ridge shingles with four inches exposed to the weather.
  • Zinc and copper strips can be found from most roofing suppliers.
  • Finally, cut back tree limbs and remove leaves and pine needles. This will allow more sunlight to reach the roof and reduce the amount of moss you have to clean next year. Also, increasing the amount of ventilation in your attic will minimize moisture buildup and moss growth below the shingles.

Mold, Algae and Fungus

• What to look for:
• Black or discolored streaks on the roof indicate you have mold, algae or fungus. Check north facing roofs and shady sections most carefully. Over time, they can eat away at roofing material, causing deterioration and leaks.
• How to fix:
  • Water alone won’t eradicate mold, algae and fungus. You need to either use a chlorine bleach solution, copper sulfate solution, or premixed professional solution designed for this purpose.
• Chlorine Bleach Solution - mix 1 part bleach to 3 parts water.
  • Before you begin working, hydrate all the plants near your house by watering them thoroughly. This will keep them from drinking in any of the bleach solution.
  • Apply the solution with a hand sprayer and let sit for 15 minutes. Rinse with a hose. Check to see if any mildew remains (it will feel slimy when you touch it). If you still have mildew, let the roof dry and repeat the process.
  • When you are done, always rinse the chlorine bleach from the roof thoroughly—if left on the roof, it could damage some types of shingles.
• Copper Sulfate Solution - mix 12 ounces (dry measure) of copper sulfate to 1 gallon of warm water.
  • Before you begin working, hydrate all the plants near your house by watering them thoroughly. This will help prevent them from drinking any of the solution.
  • Apply the solution and wait for the mildew to turn brown. When it is dry, sweep the mildew off the roof with a push broom. Rinse the roof thoroughly when done.
  • Finally, as we’ve mentioned before, cutting back tree limbs increases air and sun exposure and reduces the buildup of mildew and algae.

Roof Gutter Maintenance

Remember to check roof gutters and downspouts for leaks or debris that cause poor drainage.

• What to look for:
  • Check that gutters are not clogged with leaves and debris and that they are draining properly. Look for cracks, open seams, or sags where the gutter has pulled away from the roof.

• How to fix:
  • Wear rubber gloves; debris can hide sharp objects and it is smelly. Scoop debris into a bucket that you hang from your ladder using an s-hook.
  • Bring a hammer with you to fix any loose nails you come across and tighten the gutter back to the roof line.
  • After you scoop out debris, flush the gutter with a hose.
  • To clean the downspouts, insert the end of a hose into the downspout and turn the hose on full. Do the same from the bottom. Don’t force the hose into the bends, because it could get stuck. If there are clogs in the bends, use a plumber’s auger (snake) to work them out, or dissemble the bend to remove the clog.

Maintaining Roof Shingles, Tiles and Slates

Look for missing or damaged shingles, tiles or slates. Also check for missing nails. See our article on repairing shingle, tile or slate roofs for more detail.

Roof Drainage

On sloped roofs, removing debris from roofs and eaves and cleaning the gutters once or twice a year will solve most drainage problems. Remember also to check the downspouts and drains for damage, leaks or clogging.
For flat roofs, you need a drainage system that handles water, and it should be in working order at all times. Check to make sure water is not ponding anywhere.

Chimney Maintenance

While inspecting your roof, don’t forget your chimney. If mortar is crumbling that means moisture could be getting in. Also inspect the chimneypot. If this is damaged, you might need to replace it. If the chimney is no longer used, block off the top to keep birds out, and prevent rain and drafts from entering. Most repairs to these parts of the chimney require a professional.

Check the flu pipe, cowl and fastenings in and around the chimney. If they are becoming corroded, remove the rust and paint with galvanized iron primer and apply roof paint. Replace fastenings with galvanized or stainless steel fastenings.

Roof Flashing

Flashing is used at connections between roof sections, around chimneys, vents, skylights—anywhere the plane of your roof is interrupted. They can be manufactured from steel, aluminum, copper or vinyl.

• What to look for:
  • Loose flashing or flashing with holes in it.
  • If you find loose flashing, don’t simply nail it back down. Replace the nails with galvanized screws for a longer lasting solution. Then, cover the screw heads with roofing cement. If you have copper flashing, use copper screws. Galvanized metal will cause copper to corrode.
• How to fix it:
  • Small holes in flashing can be repaired, but larger ones require the replacement of the flashing. To repair a hole in flashing, clean the surface and abrade it with a stiff wire brush or sandpaper. Clean it again. Cut a patch of replacement flashing material that is larger than the hole by 2” on all sides. Apply roofing cement to the hole and the surrounding area and press the patch firmly over it. Hold for about 3 minutes. Cover the patch with another layer of cement.

How to Seal Chimney Flashing

Chip out the mortar and caulking that joins the flashing to the chimney, using a hammer and chisel. Caulk between the chimney and the cap flashing, and between the cap and step flashing with roofing cement.

How to Seal Vent Flashing

Calk between the vent pipe and the vent flashing (the cone shaped support for the pipe) with roofing cement. Lift the shingles surrounding the vent flashing and apply roofing cement on them, extending it up to the vent flashing. Keep extra shingles on hand in case you need to replace any while you are working on this. Check that all the areas where shingles meet the flashing flange (the flat part beneath the vent flashing) are sealed with roofing cement.

How to Seal a Skylight

Lift the shingles around the skylight and apply roofing cement under them. Extend the cement across all joints up to the flange (the metal girdle of the skylight box).

How to Seal a Drip Edge

Flashing along the rake (sloped edge) and drip (straight) edge of your roof is also flashed. To seal the rake edge, lift the shingles along the downward slope and apply roofing cement all the way to the edge. Don’t seal the drip edge along the flat face of the eave, because that will block drain holes.

How to Seal Flashing Along a Dormer

Chisel out any old caulking and re caulk between the flashing and shingles or siding with an outdoor weatherproof caulk or roof cement. Caulk seams in flashing also.

Annual Fall Check Up

Keep tree limbs trimmed back to avoid nasty roof damage during storms and high winds!

Clean Gutters and Down Spouts - removing debris, snow and ice from gutters and drains ensures that melting snow can run off into the gutters without becoming trapped on the roof, and potentially refreezing. Check your gutters periodically throughout the winter and keep them clear of debris.

Remove Snow Buildup - use a long handled rake made for snow removal to remove built up snow during the winter. This will prevent ice dams and reduce stress on the roof due to excess weight. Ice dams form when snow melts during the day, flows under the shingles and refreezes at night. If this happens repeatedly, water can enter the attic and damage the roof and even the insulation, ceilings and walls.

Install Adequate Attic Insulation - especially if your home was built before 1970, check to see that you have adequate insulation in your attic. Most builders recommend a minimum of R-30, and R-38 in colder climates. This will reduce the chance that heat escaping from your attic will melt roof snow, creating ice dams when the melted snow refreezes at night. It will also cut your heating costs and help your house stay warmer.

Install Adequate Attic Ventilation - make sure you have adequate ventilation system in your attic. This will keep the underside of your roof deck dry and cool, and extend the roof life by reducing dry rot, cupping and curling.

Some of the newer metal roofing materials are even designed to give your roof the look of wood shakes or slate tile. A wide variety of metal roofing systems is available on the market today.

A 2007 member survey by the National Roofing Contractors Association provides evidence that up to thirty percent of new homes now use architectural metal roofs, up from only twenty-three percent in 2004.

Types of Metal Roofing Materials Used

The primary metals used to make metal roofing materials include aluminum, steel, stainless steel, copper, and zinc alloys. Each metal roofing material has unique properties that affect its appearance, durability and price.

Heavier and more durable than aluminum, steel is a popular choice for metal roofing. Coated with zinc and sealed to provide a finish that protects it against rust and corrosion, a modern steel roof, installed properly, can last fifty years or longer.

The coatings typically consist of a bottom coat of epoxy primer, which provides additional adhesion, and an acrylic top coating, which is baked on to add protection and color that will withstand harsh sunlight, rain, snow and ice.

Stainless steel is another popular, but more expensive, metal roofing material that is highly resistant to rust and corrosion. A Terne coating may also be used to give stainless steel roofing material a more natural, matte-gray finish.

Aluminum roofing materials are extremely lightweight, making them another choice for home roofing. While aluminum doesn’t rust, it does need to be painted or coated to provide a more attractive appearance. The coatings used on aluminum roofing are similar to those used on steel roofing materials.

Copper has been used as a roofing material for centuries and offers a rust-free surface that is naturally resistant to scratching or peeling and develops a natural patina with time that is quite attractive. However, copper is extremely expensive and thus, less commonly used as a home roofing material these days.

Todays metal roofing materials are attractive, light weight, long lasting and more affordable than most tile roofing materials.

Metal Roofing Finishes

As described above, metal roofing materials often have a factory-applied protective layer applied in order to provide superior protection from the elements and to give the materials a more attractive appearance. The type of coatings used varies by manufacturer, the metal used and the desired look to be achieved in the final product.

Metal roofing materials may also be left uncoated in some cases, giving it a naturally weathering appearance and is more commonly found in metal shingles or shingle panels made from aluminum, copper, zinc or stainless steel.

Galvanized steel can also be used in manufacturing metal shingles or shingle panels, with a factory-applied paint system used to bake on a protective coating using fluoropolymers, producing a metallic-coated carbon steel roofing material.

Other types of coatings used on metal shingles and shingle panels include epoxy and ceramic granules or crushed stone chips, used to achieve the appearance of stone and further protect the metal roofing material.

Types of Metal Roofing

Structural and non-structural, or architectural metal roofing materials are the two basic types of metal roofing in use today for residential purposes. Structural metal roofing is attached directly to lathe boards or purlins and doesn’t require solid sheathing underneath; the roofing material adds rigidity and integrity to the structure of the roof, thus its name.

On the other hand, non-structural metal roofing does require a solid substrate underneath, in which case oriented strand board, a metal roof deck or plywood sheathing is used.

Metal roofing has evolved substantially with new technologies and systems being introduced over the last twenty years. Where corrugated metal roofing with its heavy and unsightly waving ridges, was once used for sheds, barns and commercial-type outbuildings, today’s metal roofing materials have improved greatly in terms of durability and appearance.

Two primary types of metal roofing systems are most commonly used today; standing seam roofing systems and metal roofing “shingles”. Within each of these two types, there are many variations and each manufacturer offers its own metal roofing systems.

A standing seam metal roof is excellent for shedding snow and can last fifty years or longer if properly installed.

Standing seam metal roofing materials have been used on barns and industrial buildings for decades, but more recently, these systems have evolved and improved to become more attractive and popular for residential use.

Made using a roll-forming manufacturing process, standing seam roof panels have a seam at one end and a lock on the other end, so that they interlock with clips for easy installation and a clean, attractive look. Seams where the roof panels are joined will be turned up, making them higher than the roof’s drainage level, providing excellent water-tightness and snow shedding capabilities, which makes them most popular in mountainous locations.

A standing seam roof does require additional labor versus other types of roofing systems, since the panels must be custom cut to properly fit the dimensions of a home’s roof. But the distinctive look and excellent durability have made standing seam metal roofing systems increasingly popular.

Metal Shingle Roofing Materials

At the other end of the metal roofing materials spectrum are individual shingles made from metal, but designed to simulate the look of wood or asphalt shakes or clay, stone or slate roof tiles. In many cases the shakes or tiles are formed into multi-shingle panels for easier installation.

The advanced coating and painting processes used today enable a wide variety of colors, textures and styles to be achieved with metal roofing shingles. Metal shingles are available in steel, copper, zinc, aluminum and stainless steel materials.

A variety of metal roofing materials are available, from the more familiar standing-seam sheet metal roof to newer, specialized metal roof shingle products that look more like tiles.

Read on to learn some of the benefits of metal roofing materials over other types of roofing products.

Metal Roofing Service Life

When correctly installed, a metal roof can last as long as the house itself and will seal out water, withstand high winds, and shed snow with ease. A metal roof is quite fire resistant and prevents problems such as mildew, insects, and rot from occurring. Warranty terms vary for metal roofing materials, but most reputable manufacturers warranty their products from twenty to as much as fifty years!

Easy, Speedy Metal Roofing Installation

Typically, metal roofing materials are delivered in multi-shingle sheets or sections, which make installation very quick for an experienced roofing contractor. When your old roofing has been stripped, you want to get the new roof installed as quickly as possible before inclement weather potentially damages your home.

Metal Roofing Heat Conduction Qualities

A metal roof is very effective in reflecting the radiant heat of the sun during warm weather, helping keep your home cool. Despite the fact that metal roofing will have a low R-value, most metal roofing systems incorporate dead air space between the deck of the roof and the roofing material to increase insulation and energy efficiency.

Attractive, light weight and durable, metal roofing systems continue to gain popularity with roofing contractors and homeowners alike.

When compared to most tile roofing at 750 pounds per square (100 square feet) or concrete tile roofing at 900 pounds per square, metal roofing materials are quite lightweight; the average metal roofing materials weigh between 50 and 150 pounds per square.

In some cases, a metal shingle roof can be installed over existing roofing without the expense of tear off or the addition of structural support changes to the roof, since in most cases it will be lighter than the previous roofing material!

Fire Resistant Metal Roofing Materials

Since metal is noncombustible, a metal roof has a Class A fire rating, meaning it is considered the most fire resistant type of roof available.

Installing your metal roofing over an existing wood roof does decrease its fire rating since the old materials below your new metal roof will be combustible. For this reason, it is generally worth the additional cost of having the old roof torn out before installing metal roofing.

Metal Roofing Doesn’t Require a Steep Pitch

Since a metal roof is quite effective in shedding water and snow, it can be installed on a less steeply pitched roof without danger of leaking. On a new home designed with metal roofing in mind, the pitch will generally be three in twelve, meaning the roof rises three inches per horizontal foot.

With all these advantages and benefits, it’s easy to see why so many homeowners are choosing metal roofing systems these days. Within the Roofing Materials section of Roofing-Articles.com you can learn more about the various types of metal roofing materials and systems available, installation techniques and more about buying and installing a metal roof.

Then, you realize that a roof is one of the most important major components of your home, since a failing roof affects almost all the other components.

And aside from “putting a roof over your head”, there are also aesthetic and safety considerations with the type of roof and roofing products used in home construction.

And you have a lot of choices when it comes to home roofing products; from asphalt shingles to wood shakes, ceramic tile to steel panels and green products like recycled rubber.

So how do you choose the right roofing material for your home? Cost, availability, style, durability, longevity and fire safety are among the criteria you should consider when making a decision on replacing a roof or what type of roofing to use on a new home.

Traditional wood shake and shingle roofing is giving way to engineered and composite roofing materials, which can be more durable and fireproof, as well as being more cost effective.

Roofing Product Trends

As with most home building materials, roofing products these days are trending toward engineered materials.

One reason for this trend is the ever-increasing cost of natural materials like wood and stone.

Another is that building codes in most regions of the United States now require the use of fireproof roofing materials.

But perhaps the most important reason people are using engineered roofing materials is the return on investment they offer; while the up front cost of installing a roof is one consideration, the service life and maintenance costs must also be factored in order to determine which roofing material provides the best value.

Factoring Roofing Material Costs

The cost of various roofing materials ranges dramatically. An asphalt shingle roof will run from $50 to $150 or more per square (100 square feet). Tearing off the old shingles, which is advisable, adds $30 to $50 per square.

Metal roofing or concrete tiles can start as low as $100 per square but cost as much as $600 a square or more for high quality, coated steel and copper roofing products.

Installing a ceramic tile, slate or “fake” slate roof will cost the most. Clay tiles run from $300 to $500 per square and slate can run as much as $1000 a square, requiring highly skilled roofers and an extraordinary amount of labor.

Roofing for the Long Term

When factoring roofing cost you have to consider not only the initial cost of materials and labor, but also the total lifecycle cost. An asphalt shingle roof may last 20 years, but a quality slate roof can last as long as 100 years.

Some of today’s engineered metal and cement roofing products come with warranty periods of 40 or even 50 years, so the less expensive roofing product may not in fact save you money over the long haul. Combine this with the enhanced look many of these products offer over asphalt shingles and you may find that it makes more sense to pay the extra up front cost.

When considering durability and longevity of roofing materials, be sure to know what the term and conditions of the manufacturer’s warranty entails and purchase materials from a well known and reputable manufacturer you know will be there should a warranty need arise many years down the road!

Asphalt Roofing Shingles

Cheap and effective, standard three-tab asphalt shingles are used on almost 90 percent of all residential roofs in the United States. These products typically have a 20 to 30 year warranty, which can make them a great value.

A slightly upgraded variation on three-tab asphalt is the architectural shingle, which is typically about twice the thickness and is installed in staggered layers to give the roof a more pleasing look. For a modest price increase, the architectural shingle products typically have a 30 year warranty and will add a bit more style to your home.

Ceramic Roof Tiles

Coming from the Mediterranean style of architecture, ceramic tile roofing is quite popular in the warmer climes of the Southwest and Florida. A tile roof is very heavy and requires framing designed to support the additional weight.

Barrel tiles are the most common type of ceramic tile and look like half cylinders, typically about 16 inches in length. Other clay tile roofing products can be shaped like slate tiles or thick shingles, designed to suit other architectural styles.

While any tile roofing product will be more expensive than asphalt, many of these materials will last 50 years or more.

Metal Roofing

Metal roofs, formed from corrugated, galvanized sheets, were historically used on sheds, barns and other outbuildings on farms. Depending on the quality and style, a metal roof can be very cheap and long-lasting and are very popular in areas subject to heavy snowfall.

High end metals like copper can be at the far other end of the price equation, giving a custom home a very unique look.

Properly installed and maintained, metal roofing should last at least 50 years.

Wood Shake and Wood Shingle Roofing

For many, the look of a traditional wood shingle roof fits a range of home architectural styles. With time, wood shakes weather to a grayish or soft silver tone that helps a home blend in with the natural landscape.

The most common wood shake roofing materials used are Western Red Cedar, Alaskan Yellow Cedar and Eastern White Cedar. Wood shingles are fairly smooth, cut to a uniform thickness, but vary in width. Wood shakes will be rougher and thicker than shingles, since they are split rather than sawn from the wood logs.

A wood roof is meant to breathe and laid over a substrate in order to allow air to circulate behind the shingles or shakes. Traditionally, skip sheathing is used, with wood battens or strips being nailed directly to the roof rafters. Other products, such as plastic or a pressure-treated lattice are sometimes used these days to allow proper circulation under a wood shingle or shake roof.

With the rising cost of wood, changing building codes and fire safety regulations, wood shake and shingle roofing has become very expensive and is less and less commonly used in home construction. Properly installed and maintained, a wood roof can last up to 30 years.

Engineered roofing products are also available now that simulate the look of wood shakes and shingles, made from cement materials with better fireproof qualities and, in some cases, superior durability to real wood and requiring very little maintenance.

Slate and Engineered Slate Roofing

In the Northeast slate was used traditionally as a roofing material on high-end custom homes. With a useful life of up to 100 years and excellent ability to shed snow and ice, like ceramic, it is quite heavy and therefore requires proper roof support and structure.

With natural slate being too expensive in most cases these days, manufactured “fake” slate products have become increasingly popular as an alternative. Made from plastic and recycled rubber composites, these engineered slate roofing materials are far more affordable, weigh about a third as much as real slate and can have up to a 50 year warranty.

Many people mistake roof type with roofing materials. Both are important, but the type of roof your home has is determined when the home is designed and built whereas many materials are applicable for use on various types of roofs.

The design and type of roof used on a home should be determined by factors such as local weather and geographic conditions as well as the style of the home’s architecture; a flat roof may be appropriate to a commercial building such as a warehouse or strip mall building, but would look quite out of place on a Victorian style home!

Read on to learn the basic types of roof design commonly used in home design and construction.

Flat

A flat roof is just that; flat. Flat roofs are easy to build and require fewer materials and labor than most other types of roofs, which is why they are so commonly used on commercial buildings. A flat roof is not very attractive on most styles of homes, but will be found on some modern style homes and many multi-family residential dwellings.

Gabled

The classic gable roof has two slopes forming a ridge or a peak at the top. From either end, the gable looks like the letter A. Gabled roofs must be braced properly to prevent damage or collapse due to high winds. A very triangular roof, the gable allows rain and snow to run off easily.

Cross Gabled

Typically featured on Tudor and Cape Cod style homes, a cross gabled roof has two gables that cross each other. Because of the more complex joints and bracing required, a cross gable roof requires more construction materials and labor.

Front Gable

Many gabled roofs have the gable ends on either side of a home, but some architectural styles like Cape Cods and Colonials will feature front gables.

Gambrel

A flattened gable roof style featured in Dutch colonial style homes and found on many American farmhouses, a gambrel roof looks more like a bell than a triangular shape when viewed from the side. The gambrels may be front or side facing.

Hipped

Common on bungalow style homes, a hipped roof slopes up from all sides of a building and is low-pitched to allow snow and rain to easily run off and features large eaves. A hipped roof is more aerodynamic than most gabled roofs, allowing it to better withstand high winds.

Cross Hipped

Similar to a hipped roof the cross-hipped roof has two sections that cross.

Pavilion Hipped

Commonly used on Cape Cod, Colonial, and Ranch style homes.

Mansard

Common on French Chateau and Ranch style homes, a Mansard roof features a flat area at the top instead of being perfectly triangular in shape.

Salt Box

Featured in two-story colonial homes throughout the eastern United States, a salt box roof is gabled, but the two sides are not symmetrical.

Shed

Easy and cheap to build, a shed roof is similar to a gabled roof and allows melting snow and rain to run off easily.

Roofing Articles provides you with an overview of the basic tools and equipment needed to maintain, repair or install a roof.

Some of the tools used have been around for decades, while others have evolved into high tech roofing tools.

Equipping yourself with the right tools enables you to complete jobs efficiently and safely.

Read on to learn the basic tools of the roofing trade.

Air Knife

Designed specifically for cutting thick laminate shingles an air knife runs on compressed air and has a heat-tempered hook blade to slice through all types of shingles.

Hammer Stapler

For some roofing applications a hammer stapler is used to apply heavy duty non-rusting staples instead of nails.

Knee Pads

Many a roofer’s career is over when his knees give out, so protecting your knees with comfortable pads is highly recommended.

Layout Tools

Basic roofing layout requires a plumb line to get accurate reference points, a chalk line to mark layout lines and a good quality retractable steel tape measure.

Pry Bar

Used to remove roofing material when replacing a roof. Various lengths may be needed depending on the demolition job.

Roofer’s Chair

When spending long periods of time on a pitched roof, the roofer’s chair with clawed feet gives you a stable and level working place.

Roofing Hammer

The most basic tool for any roofer is a roofing hammer, with a hatchet end for splitting shakes and shingles and a hammer end for pounding nails. Some high quality roofing hammers will have a gauge to let you easily maintain course height.

Roofing Nailer

Pneumatic roofing nailers offer many advantages for some types of roofing jobs. And since a roofing nailer is often the most used and abused tool in a roofer’s tool chest, you’ll want to get a name brand model from Bostich, Senco, Hitachi or one of the other major manufacturers.

Shingle Saw

Used to cut shingles, slate and other roofing materials. Blades are available for cutting all types of roofing materials including wood shingles, light metal, masonry material and fiber cement.

Slater’s Bracket

This handy tool provides the roofer with adjustable positions to hold planks in place when working on a slate roof with most any pitch.

Tool Belt

A roofer need to have his hands free as much as possible, so a comfortable, durable tool belt is crucial.

Utility Knife

A sharp utility knife and good supply of sharp blades are essential for cutting felt and trimming shakes and roof shingles.